Posted by Gus on 11/9/2008, 3:43 pm, in reply to "Re: Please help with my Eucalyptus Globulus" Link: Eucalyptologics: Info resources on eucalypt cultivation worldwide
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Hello again 
Comments:
- The temperatures mentioned are okay for your young E. globulus sapling, since it is already beyond the most fragile moments, which are as seedling. Now it can coppice and re-sprout normally even with some frost damage. Bigger planted eucalypt trees can survive a bit lower temperatures than mentioned for the case of E. globulus (but not much more, -5ºC is still the worrying temperature).
- Insulation to the planter won't harm, but I do not think it is necessary. Just make sure the substrate does not get frozen solid during the worst frosts by having it indoors by then (they can survive that too, but not always!). Anything more benign than that should be okay.
- Fertiliser for long term cultivation of Eucalyptus in containers is needed, as the plants quickly use all available in the beginning. More if for Eucalyptus re-growth cases (the lost canopy means extraction of nutrients out of the system in the small ecosystem pot-plant). However, these efforts should be concentrated by spring (after the worst of frost is over) and by summer. Fertilising by autumn or winter can be dangerous for frost prone areas (newest growth in the tips is fragile).
- Damp substrate is the normal thing by this season. Too clogged rootballs mean water does not infiltrate well, so you get a "small pond". Not your case. Too dry ones swallow it very quickly. Not your case. Lower growth rates mean lower water use, and lower temperatures, less transpiration. So, damp. Your case. Everything okay with your plant.
- Larger planter would have some more room for roots and improve areation, regardless pruning or not pruning the current rootball. If the aerial part is huge, and you remove lots of the rootball, there is risk of dessication (difficulties for water uptake to replenish the water lost in transpiration) regardless of new planter size. If putting it back to the same planter, just try to work out any circling root or "big woody" one near the bottom, and cut them back. The roots you want are fine Eucalyptus roots.
- Leaf fall is normal in the conditions you report. The purpleish colours of some leaves in your case (as it is not yet caused by frost) is normal too when under low light conditions. I got totally leafless ones from keeping them indoors for too long a time. Two mechanisms play in that case for E. globulus indoors: (1) the plant discards leaves that do not produce food (no photosynthesis because too dim light, green pigments replaced by reddish) + (2) the plant tries to push new growth upwards but it fails (temperature too low for normal fast growth and/or too little light for efficient photosynthesis). It mimics a natural process in which the older leaves are shed to be replaced by newer ones in the top of the tree or the tip of branches. Maybe it is too late to stop leaf fall, but the tree shouldn't die even if it lost them all. Most Eucalyptus can "resurrect".
- E. gunnii branches: No thread, I just was looking at the photos in your photobucket gallery, and saw the Cider Gum branches you put inside the budgies' cage some time ago These birds love to nibble eucs!
Cheers
Gus
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