Posted by John Riolo on 8/4/2008, 10:39 am, in reply to "Satin Finishing"
Message modified by board administrator 8/4/2008, 8:19 pm
So I decided to take on the dye/topcoat process and started with a customer who wanted a Black dye with a satin finish and used Transtint Black dye and 4 coats of Tung oil over that. A very laborious process.
We don't have a spray booth and shooting rattle cans is not an option indoors in the winter. The Professional way would be to have a spray booth and use auto finishing products like 2 part clear coats that dry in an hour or so, but it's not an option. So I thought I'd try my luck with things you can do indoors by hand. It's way too laborious to be profitable considering all the wait times, masking, etc. I took a lesson from a friend up in Portland who helped me with the first Black Dye Kit and first coats of Tung Oil.
Used an random orbital sander with 220 to prepare all shells and treated the shells with Benite, which makes the dye be accepted more evenly. Each shell nonetheless is a different piece of wood with density/humidity issues and each one behaves slightly different or even radically different. Getting all the shells to match can require individual attention and application at any stage in the game.
I then did the Dark Stain Kit using Transtint Dark Maple and wipe on Minwax Poly.
The wipe on poly was also laborious and I put on 4 wipe on coats. Had trouble with the Bass Drum Dark Stain cause the last coat of poly came out streaky, so I sanded it down to the stain and applied Minwax Spray on Poly and that fixed the problem, it came out Great. Was able to spray that with the door open and it's not too fumey.
Started the second kit by transtinting it orange and then did the red over it and faded into the orange. Clear coated with 4 coats of wipe on Minwax poly, it all came out smooth with no hitches.
Did some sanding with 0000 Steel Wool on the raw dye shells to even out some of the overly dark spots before applying Top Coats.
Responses: