Posted by Phil McLean
on 7/28/2009, 11:35:29
Below find the latest Arctic Mariner Blog entry. What an adventure in a small boat! -PM
272000Z Jul 09.
N 69 58 0.22 W 131 34.172
Wind Sp 6 kts
Wind Dir E
8 degrees C
Clear weather
Wave height negligable NE
26-27 July 2009
A lot of firsts have occurred over the last 36 hours that have served to remind us what a special experience we are privileged to enjoy..... Tak..luk..tuk..a luka tuk tuk.... the pronunciation of which defeats me, was a real slow laborous beat to wind in light airs through the early hours of the 26th. At some point during the sail in I woke Kev to wish him a fine birthday, received the expected grunt and continued on in to towards the settlement...... At 0600 after a long night our impressions of this remote outpost on the top of the world were none too favourable. Yet again we were to be surprised. Despite the isolation and all the social problems that go with it the inuit living there proved to be amazingly welcoming and hospitable people. within a few hours we'd met most of the children in the hamlet, it's mayor and finally the padre. Andy Yorke was actually the former padre back visiting his old haunts on a working holiday from his new parish on the Isle of white in the UK. Suffice it to say we were looked after incredibly well and introduced to a host of fascinating locals. Kev even got to sample fresh caribou steak and dried fish as a birthday treat.
In the late afternoon we headed off north refreshed and revitalized making good speed into a strengthening breeze. Easterly winds forced us north throughout the day and it was not long before we found ourselves far out to sea. Again we had crossed the mental hurdle of standing well out to sea and allowing the land to drop clear out of site. It's a uniquely isolating feeling to be this far north in such a small craft but we were not to be alone for long in the early hours of the morning I spotted our first mini ice berg drifting right into our path, again I woke kev but this time received more than a grunted response as we both dived for cameras. Shortly afterwards the silence was broken by a pod of beluga whales sounding all around us. A rare privilege that I will not attempt to describe here. The weather throughout the night was significantly colder than we've seen already and in the constant struggle to stay awake we were massively helped by ambers IPOD play lists. Finally after more than 50 hard miles of beating into a chilling polar wind we closed to within sight of land and eventually put in on a long stretch of sandy beach for a pair of hours. Once again we had a reception party this time a magnificent Caribou charging down the beach towards us, shying away only at the very last moment..... An incredible sight although we're still unsure if he was trying to run us off his patch of beach or simply trying to escape the hordes of mosquitoes that subsequently assaulted us. Test firing the shotgun at an old whale vertebrae (We both hit) brought a smile to both our faces almost as wide as that following a cold sea bath!!!!!!!
An incredible day that goes to reinforce our new found zeal for taking each day at a time... as I type kev is barechested on the oars rowing in bright sun shine across a glassy ocean, a far cry from the previous nights cold and discomfort.
A big thank you to all who've written on the message board please keep them coming they are a huge source of encouragement to us both and give us something more to talk about... -Tony
http://www.arcticmariner.org/
529
Message Thread:
« Back to thread